If we were viewing wine as art and I was a curator, Australia would be one of my first choices to exhibit. There’s something sophisticated, sensual and mysterious about what’s going on with Australian wines these days. From the experiments taking place in the vineyards, to the more-often-than-not provocative packaging, to the incredible juice that uniquely explodes with fruit, mint and earth, the Aussies are doing it right. Somewhere between tradition and unrivaled progression, this is contemporary art.

It used to be that a handful of producers were the face of Australian wine: Rosemount Estates, Lindeman’s, Wolf Blass, Penfolds, to name a few. They’d dominate the Australian section of wine lists and liquor stores everywhere. You’d recognize their shirazes, cabernets, merlots, chardonnays and various blends of those grapes, and you could be confident in choosing one. The wines were (and still are) good, some outstanding, but outside of that there weren’t many surprises. The brand names were strangely synonymous at the moderate price points, almost interchangeable, and they left us wine geeks wanting more, wanting something new.

That something new is happening right now.

Australian wineries, established and up-and-comers, are blossoming with expression. They’re reimagining classic and oddball varietals for every budget. You’ll find $15 shirazes and cabernets that are huge, intense and brimming with dark fruit, chocolate, herbs and spice. And you’ll find $10 viogniers and rieslings that are vibrant, crisp and beautifully perfumed. Each style is as individualistic as the winemaker himself, and so the growing palette of Australian wine is more colorful than ever.

There’s also a trend toward artful packaging, with much of it playful, absurd and often sexy and mysterious. There are wineries like the provocatively named Fetish, putting out fantastic juice under the names "The Watcher" and "Playmates." Or the pin-up inspired labels of Wine by Some Young Punks (yes, that’s the winery name), with wines named "Quickie!," "Passion Has Red Lips" and "Naked on Roller Skates." Laugh, be appalled, turn on your inner demons, but there’s no denying these will turn heads. And if those aren’t appropriate for your family’s dining room table, then you can’t go wrong with the Mollydooker line and their cutesy "Two Left Feet," "The Violinist" and "The Boxer" labels. Don’t get me wrong – as much as I like writing about these insanely cool labels, the juice is fantastic inside the aforementioned bottles (though not always inexpensive).

Right now Australia provides an experience for the wine drinker. The wine is a bridge between the old world, new world and what’s to come. It seems to me the Aussies are about progression, forward thinking and not taking everything so damn seriously. They’re making great stuff and having a good time doing it. What could be better than that? And we can join in. We only need to open our minds and let the artful wizardry of Oz in.

* 2010 Yalumba, "The Y Series" Viognier, South Australia

Try if you like: Chardonnay, mid-weight floral whites

Medium-bodied with intermingling aromas of white flowers, ginger, candied fruit and lemon peel. Cream and spice on the palate with a crisp, lingering acidity. It's a silky, floral, and seductive viognier from Australia's oldest family-owned winery.

Pair it with: Mild soft cheeses, white flaky fish, poultry with lemony sauces

How much: $9.99

Retail locations include: Linwood Wine & Liquor Co., Fort Lee; Stew Leonard's Wines locations

* 2010 The Misfit Wine Co., "The Golem" Riesling, Clare Valley, Australia

Try if you like: Dry riesling, sauvignon blanc, crisp and vibrant whites

Riesling probably isn't the first thing that comes to mind when you think about Australian wine, but this one makes a good argument that maybe it should be. The Golem is fresh and vibrant, with notes of snappy citrus, green apple and honeydew. It brings a bit of Aussie style to the varietal with the faintest hint of menthol on the nose and an herbal spiciness that lingers on the finish.

Pair it with: Shellfish, Asian cuisine, duck, smoked salmon

How much: $10.99

Retail locations include: Shoppers Vineyard, Clifton

* 2009 First Drop Wines, "The Red One" Blend, South Australia

Try if you like: Mid-weight, fruit forward reds

Fifty-six percent cabernet sauvignon blended with shiraz, and trace amounts of barbera, trincadeira, tempranillo and nebbiolo. Fruit forward, with fresh strawberry and cherry notes that lean into a bit of spice and earth. It's a bold but easy drinker.

Pair it with: Casual meals, pizza, pasta, chicken

How much: $9.99

Retail locations include: Woodcliff Lake Wines & Liquors, Woodcliff Lake; Super Cellars, Ridgewood; Stew Leonard's Wines locations

* 2008 Shinas Estate, "The Guilty" Shiraz, Victoria, Australia

Try if you like: Cabernet sauvignon, bold reds

With wines named The Guilty, The Innocent, The Verdict, and The Executioner, I became an instant fan of Shinas Estate. This is one of the first shirazes I fell in love with. Deep inky purple color with black cherry, toasty oak and earth and a distinct aroma that reminds me of chocolate Twizzlers.

Pair it with: Beef stew, game, grilled steak

Around how much: $15.99

Retail locations include: Shoppers Vineyard, Clifton

Joe Iurato is a certified sommelier, wine consultant and lecturer, and a working fine artist. For questions and comments, e-mail him at features@northjersey.com.