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Grilled veal rib chop with Gruyère popover. (Photo by Michael Karas)
Posted: Friday January 25, 2013, 9:58 AM
By BOB PROBERT, SPECIAL TO THE RECORD

When I first visited The Kitchen two years ago, at its original location on Palisade Avenue in Englewood, it was clear that owner Stephen Henderson and executive chef Wade New were doing some very good things. It was also clear that with the restaurant's rapidly growing popularity, the 20-seat space would be severely limiting. When something larger became available up the street, Henderson decided to move uptown — if only just a few blocks. The food was already "uptown" — and it still is.

The inviting space is evocative of an elegant speakeasy, complete with a bronzed tin ceiling, exposed brick, black ceiling fans, crystal chandeliers and bold green leaf-patterned wallpaper. The noise level was tolerable despite the tin ceiling, which can be the auditory kiss of death.

To read the rest of this review, click here.

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