On a raw winter’s day, few things are more enjoyable than being in a warm, cozy kitchen baking. Whether it’s to make a batch of cookies, a simple cake or a savory bread, there’s something deeply satisfying about stirring together butter, sugar and eggs or kneading a batch of yeast dough. And there’s more satisfaction in knowing that homemade baked goods are better for you and your family than packaged ones.

I never did terribly well in science class, but I’m drawn to the alchemy of baking – the fact that flour, baking powder, butter and cream, put together the right way, make scones. If you’re capable in the kitchen and want to cook dinner — say, a pasta dish — you can probably pull ingredients out of your fridge and cabinets and put something tasty together without a recipe. To bake from scratch, however, even experienced cooks usually need one.

Dozens of good baking cookbooks are on the market, but “Baking Basics and Beyond,” by Pat Sinclair, is notable both for its scope and its simplicity. As the title suggests, the sweet and savory basics are all here, and the recipes are written in a straightforward style, making this an ideal book for beginners. But the “beyond” recipes will tempt bakers eager for new ideas; butterscotch cashew blondies, chocolate amaretto pound cake, and onion, fig and Asiago focaccia all caught my eye. You’ll find the focaccia on the next page – as yeast breads go, it’s easy and more delicious than anything you can buy.

ONION, FIG AND ASIAGO FOCACCIA
From “Baking Basics and Beyond”: A traditional Italian focaccia is sprinkled with herbs, usually rosemary, and and drizzled with olive oil … Unlike pizza, focaccia is served at room temperature.
 
2 ¾ cups all-purpose flour
1 tablespoon sugar
1 (¼ ounce) package active dry yeast
½ teaspoon coarse salt
1 cup very warm water (120-130 degrees F)
¼ cup olive oil, divided
1 medium onion, thinly sliced
1 cup grated Asiago cheese
8 dried figs, coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons coarsely chopped fresh rosemary leaves
Coarse salt

Combine flour, sugar, yeast and salt in a large bowl. Add water and 2 tablespoons olive oil and mix until a sticky dough is formed.

Cover bowl and let dough rise in a warm place for 30 minutes. (Note: It will have risen but may not be doubled in size.) Punch dough down, forcing out any large air bubbles. Cover loosely and allow dough to rise for an additional 15 minutes.

While dough is rising, heat remaining olive oil in a 9-inch skillet over medium heat. Add sliced onions and cook until tender. You will need to stir occasionally so onions don’t burn. When cooked through, onions will be transparent; they will brown during baking. Remove onions from heat and let cool slightly.

Lightly coat a 12-inch pizza pan, or rimmed cookie sheet, with non-stick cooking spray. Press dough onto pan. Use the handle of a wooden spoon, or your knuckles, to press dimples in the dough. Place onion slices on top and sprinkle with cheese, figs, rosemary and coarse salt. The oil from the onions will fill the dimples. Cover loosely and let rise 30 minutes.

Heat oven to 425 with rack in the lower third. Bake 20 to 25 minutes or until focaccia edges are brown and cheese is melted. Cool to room temperature and cut into wedges to serve.

Serves: 12

Nutrition information per serving: 206 calories (34 percent from fat), 8 grams fat (3 grams saturated, 3 grams monounsaturated), 10 milligrams cholesterol, 6 grams protein, 29 grams carbohydrates, 2 grams fiber, 265 milligrams sodium.

Email: sherrill@northjersey.com Blog: northjersey.com/secondhelpings Twitter: susanlsherrill

Susans Tips:

• A cold mixing bowl will keep the yeast from rising properly. Before you put the ingredients in it, warm your bowl by filling it with hot water and allowing it to sit for a few minutes. Pour out the water and wipe the bowl dry before proceeding.
• I like to let yeast dough rise in my oven, a warm, draft-free environment where I can control the temperature. Before starting the recipe, turn the oven to the lowest setting (200 F) for five minutes, making sure to turn it off before putting the dough in to rise.