NISI ESTIATORIO *** 1/2
The Mourkakos family has created a light, sweeping space with a glittering fresh-fish display, authoritative servers, one of North Jersey’s few sommeliers — and plenty of noise on busy nights. But the main attraction is the thrilling modern Greek cuisine confidently presented by executive chef John Piliouras.
Prices: Mezedes and appetizers $7 to $16, entrees $19 to $40, fresh fish and seafood $20 to $36 a pound. Hours: Noon to 10 p.m. Monday to Wednesday, noon to 11 p.m. Thursday to Saturday, 1 to 9 p.m. Sunday. Liquor, wine: Full bar, impressive and comprehensive wine list (about 30 percent Greek); authoritative in-house sommelier. Noise level: Very loud to the point of near-deafening (management has added curtains and soundproof paneling). Credit cards: AE, D, DC, MC, V. Reservations: Reservations recommended Thursday to Saturday. Accommodations for children: Children’s menu. Dress: Smart casual. Early-bird specials or deals: $29 three-course menu available between 5 and 9 p.m. Sunday to Thursday. Takeout: Yes. Parking: Valet. Reviewed: April 3, 2009.
* 90 Grand Ave., Englewood; 201-567-4700; nisirestaurant.com.